In an industry where youth and the pursuit of the latest trends often take center stage, the 80-year-old designer Yohji Yamamoto is urging everyone to embrace the essence of human nature and not rush through life. Yamamoto’s Fall-Winter 2024 POUR HOMME collection is a deliberate slowdown in an industry focused on acceleration, constantly seeking the latest trends and spotlighting the youth.

Yamamoto remains tied to tradition. Born during World War II, the designer fondly remembers the “dark days” of the past. Recalling memories with a lit cigarette in hand backstage, he explains how he invites different friends of the fashion house to lead the runway show. Rooted in history, tradition, and family, the collection tells a story of savoring moments instead of letting them slip away. From Wim Wenders to Norman Reedus, models of various ages, heights, and genders walk in pairs, as if they were a family strolling together.

From billowy coats to boxy jackets bearing statements like “YoYo loves black. Does your underwear have black? Is it transparent?” the designer invokes free discourse with cryptic and nonsensical messages sewn onto the garments. Tailoring and vestments continue to make appearances on the runway in the form of oversized coats, blazers, and overall dresses. Models walk to the tunes of Radiohead’s “Creep,” a slowed-down version of Dua Lipa’s “Levitation,” and a rendition of “The Little Drummer Boy.” These songs were chosen to create a gentle and tranquil atmosphere. While many designers use music to accentuate their collections, Yamamoto aims for the garments to stand out, with music serving as mere background noise.