The Fall/Winter 2024 line, based on the creative director’s manifesto “Ancora,” proposes men’s clothing that is both sharp and seductive with an air of nonchalance.

Sabato De Sarno unveiled his concise and captivating vision for Gucci’s men’s clothing during Milan Men’s Fashion Week on Friday, providing a clear understanding of the creative director’s “Ancora” manifesto, which has defined his work at the fashion house. In Italian, the word “ancora” translates to “again”; within De Sarno’s Gucci universe, it signifies “a story about everything, but this time expressed through joy.” The designer’s debut men’s clothing line narrates this story through sophistication and allure, catering to the classic male wardrobe that has been adored by loyal customers worldwide.

The show took place at Milan’s Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a vast metalworks factory with polished concrete floors, illuminated brilliantly. The initial styles included neutral-toned vests, echoing the ensembles from De Sarno’s debut women’s collection in September, but tailored with a broader structure for men. Gloves and leather bags in the designer’s favored standout color, Gucci Rosso, played a central role in Gucci’s public image since its prominent position in his Spring 2024 collection.

Derived from Gucci’s archives, this color tone adds a rich finish to glossy leather jackets, premium jacquard workwear-style t-shirts, smooth knits, and leather goods – be it crossbody bags, canvas totes, cylindrical cases, or backpacks. Clearly, Rosso had been pinned at the forefront of De Sarno’s mood board.

Tranquility is also a priority. The designer’s refined silhouettes are cleverly crafted, with sharp corners and edges rendering each trench coat, blazer, and zippered jacket seemingly untouchable. Trousers remain straight and neatly pleated, adhering to corporate dress codes; however, there are denim variations that, if styled correctly, can pass as casual streetwear.

De Sarno exhibits strategic thinking in his design approach, considering sales forecasts as well as his creative freedom. Where the previous styles could yield the highest revenue among Gucci’s loyal customers, a portion of the collection is built upon the designer’s exploration program with a luxurious sparkle. These styles include crystal-encrusted and feathered outerwear, as well as half-button knits with glittering hooded headcovers and sequined crop tops. While they may appeal to more daring fashion enthusiasts, their whimsical details distinctly reflect De Sarno’s declaration of being “completely free and full of enthusiasm.” This is Gucci Ancora.